Moschino breaks fashion conventions at Milan Fashion Week, while Dsquared2 amps up the ante with raunchy ensembles and male dancers.

Milan Fashion Week: Predominately intended for menswear previews, the event marked the end of the previous calendar norms on Friday when it opened with two co-ed collections. There are just twenty runway shows this week, so there should be ample opportunity to consider the direction that fashion is going. Following Canadian design brand Dsquared2, which debuted a complete male and womenswear collection, Moschino opened with a show that combined menswear for the upcoming summer and women’s 2025 resort.

Highlights from Friday’s Lost and Found show at Moschino during Milan Fashion Week
During his second term as creative director of Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza tore the rules to pieces.

“I want to bring the concept of freedom of expression through clothing to Moschino’s future, since it is connected to the brand’s original DNA,” Appiolaza remarked in the rear. Gender is not at issue here. Nationality is not a factor here. Essentially, it’s about dressing as you want to and not how you should, and being at ease.

As summer approaches in the northern hemisphere, the Argentine designer reads our collective minds, appealing to our longing to escape the daily grind of the workplace and travel to our ideal destinations. Along the way, familiar items change and daydreaming takes control.

Appiolaza uses large paperclips to create a shimmering tank. Embroidered onto a blazer are fabric post-its with jobs left undone. Another turns into a survival jacket for an office worker; nothing is hidden and it has pockets for pencils, notepads, credit cards, ID badges, charging cables and field guides. Later on, it transforms into an adventure jacket complete with a magnifying glass and field guides.

Dresses are created by disassembling suits and trenches. Then, as if to say, “Enough,” they are torn apart. The final straw was an aeroplane sitting on a hat. After that, a real straw skirt.

There’s a new line of safari clothing, beach pareos, knitwear with soccer ball patterns, skirts that double as postcards and blazers printed with an Italian table still life featuring bread, ripe tomatoes and a Chianti bottle.

With a modern and irreverent twist that is guaranteed to make people grin, the collection boldly embraces the sardonic and whimsical DNA of the design house. An ink spot is ready on a suit shirt. A sparkling pizza smear adorns a tank top, which is paired with an Italian tri-color skirt featuring soccer balls all over it. Men wear brimmed hats in triplicate, as though a fashion copy machine replicated and resized them.

“These characters are all explorers on a self-discovery journey,” Appiolaza remarked.

Dsquared2 increases the intensity
With their provocative and daring men’s and women’s collection for their Dsquared2 fashion brand, Canadian twin designers Dean and Dan Caten raised the stakes.

The twins termed it “bodacious theatricality,” but the Catens brought life to the fashionable theatre with a group of men dancing together beneath red lights while wearing sheer rubberized tanks and black pants.

The well-buffed collection included sheers, sequins, leather, and denim pieces that highlighted and exposed the body. There were only two panels to a denim garment, held in place by sequined vines. He wore asymmetric, off-the-shoulder knitwear that flaunted well-defined chests. Short shorts and sports number shirts were worn over sequin bikinis. Cascading chiffons exposed harnesses used for bondage.

Dan Caten remarked, “It’s sensual and sexual,” behind the scenes. We are experiencing a slight spicy feeling due to the Dsquared2 heat.

“We are bringing love,” Dean continued. We’re bringing a dream with us. Since reality as we know it is only partially true, we are delivering theatre, which is an escape from reality.

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