The development of Japanese snack bars from red-light districts to tourist destinations

Up steep steps, down a brightly signposted street in Tokyo, and behind a windowless door sits a “snack bar” that locals have long loved but has been closed to visitors—until recently. Snack bars are warm, nostalgic places that can be found all over Japan. They are frequently jam-packed into tiny spaces and have karaoke machines that reverberate long into the night. Usually, a lady known by the moniker “mama” runs them and engages in small talk with patrons while serving drinks and little bites like dried squid, almonds, or modest cooked meals.

Though the little, hidden pubs have been a mainstay of Japanese nightlife since the post-war era, their narrow layout can be daunting, particularly to foreign visitors. A company, thus, provides guided excursions to snack bars in the capital’s Shimbashi business sector, such as Kuriyakko. A family of Americans is heard singing “Hey Jude” and “Take Me Home, Country Roads” while a poster depicting art deco is warmly illuminated by soft lights that bounce off the red wall tiles inside.

After viewing the trip on Instagram, Nora, who had lived in Japan, told AFP that she made reservations for her parents, sister, aunt, and uncle. “I’ve always seen the signs for snack bars, but I wasn’t sure of how to enter them, or what to do,” the 30-year-old stated. She did not want her last name to be made public and is currently based in San Francisco. “My family hasn’t really been in Japan very often, so it was a good opportunity to get a real experience of the bar culture” in a “jovial” yet “intimate” manner. A tour guide from Snack Yokocho shows the party how to say “cheers” in Japanese, “kanpai!” and how to order whiskey highballs and plum wine.

Roots of red light
“Mama” Kuri Awaji, who has been running Kuriyakko for 25 years, stands behind the bar wearing a sophisticated pastel kimono and wearing her hair up in a traditional manner. This snack bar is one of about 100,000 in Japan, according to Snack Yokocho, and some have a male “master” despite the majority being owned by women. With an emphasis on convivial discussion, the ambiance at snack bars is less sexually charged than at contemporary host and hostess clubs, although its origins may be traced back to Japan’s red-light districts.

According to Snack Yokocho spokesperson Mayuko Igarashi, several women turned to sex work after World War II in order to live, but anti-prostitution legislation were established around the time of the 1964 Olympics. They thus “took a simple wooden box to the regular street and served drinks and snacks” in order to generate income. These early snack restaurants gradually relocated indoors to smaller spaces that the women could run without needing to make elaborate food.

As per Igarashi, a lot of them were divorced and parenting their kids by themselves, which is why they were called “mama”. “It was difficult for them to work during the day when the children were around, so after they went to bed, women stood at the counter to work in the evening,” she continued.

In person
According to Igarashi, there were 200,000 snack bars in Japan in the 1950s and 60s, but as the “mama” retire or sell up, the number has decreased. Snack Yokocho reports that interest in their excursions is rising as a result of the record number of visitors to Japan. In addition to well-known locations like Kuriyakko, the company’s tour guides take guests to snack bars with unique themes, like a golf bar featuring an artificial putting green.

It also occasionally arranges excursions for Japanese ladies who are interested in learning about the culture of snack bars but are hesitant to knock on a closed door by themselves. Igarashi claimed that practically all of the patrons of the bars were guys for a long time. However, snack bars have evolved a “place for them to relax, or talk to ‘mama’ about their problems”.

Social media is where people chat a lot, but nothing matches in-person conversation after a difficult day, the speaker continued. “At a snack bar, people can look into each others’ eyes, and get to know each other very quickly — even strangers.”

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