Fashion
Milan Fashion Week: JW Anderson’s perspective on global warming, Prada’s youthful optimism in a troubled world
Milan Fashion Week: Through their designs, Milan designers subtly conveyed their concern about the current condition of unrest throughout the world. According to Miuccia Prada, she wished to convey hope. “I think it was the right thing to do, even in these difficult times,” she remarked backstage during the Prada event. She’s not advocating for escape. “I eventually make a constructive suggestion, but I don’t like escapism.”
The designers of Simon Cracker, a company founded 14 years ago to offer recycled designs in opposition to the dominant fashion system, stated that it would be “irresponsible” to not use the platform to remark on the situation of the world.
“A Matter of Principle” is the collection’s dedication to “the children victims of matters of principle.”
Following Sunday’s third day of mostly menswear previews for Spring/Summer 2025, here are some highlights:
Prada conveys hope
The concept of imperfection is explored in the Prada menswear line. All is not as it seems, though.
Hoodies, jackets, and shirts appear cropped rather than shrunken. Three-quarter sleeves are found on overcoats. It’s a worn-out, inexplicably inherited wardrobe. Creases are as much a part of the construction as a pleat. Wires hold pointed shirt collars high. Faux belts on trousers are low, sitting below the waist. Additionally, belts are used to adorn bags as if to seal them.
Playing with the idea of the real against the phoney, as co-creative director of the brand alongside Raf Simons, Miuccia Prada stated, “is very contemporary,” calling such elements “an invitation to take a closer look at the clothes.”
The designers noted that the vibrant green cardigan, the floral shirt, and the turquoise coat suggest a mother’s or grandmother’s wardrobe, breaking up the neutral colour scheme. To layer, arrange pieces with cutouts of inverted triangles aligned up.
Backstage, Simons remarked, “We wanted (the collection) to be already alive, as if clothes you already lived with.”
Models for Prada appeared from a plain white hut and descended a runway surrounded by a white picket fence to enter the showroom. The scene is described by the designers as both youthful and utopian.
According to Prada, “youth is the hope and the future here.” “At this time, we felt it was important to encourage young people to consider our world as well.”
Unravelling the world at Simon Cracker
A world full of knots that need to be untied, just like the ones keeping the most recent Simon Cracker line of largely repurposed clothing together.
Designers Filippo Biraghi and Simone Botte put together their collection of reused garment castoffs for Spring/Summer 2025. They used drawstrings and laces to make dresses out of knitwear, skirts out of tennis shirt sections, and jackets that were restructured. Every component is unique.
Through dying, the “nervous” colour palette of acid green, sea blue, violet, and black was created. Each material responded to the process differently.
Behind the scenes, Biraghi remarked, “It is a way of recounting what is happening in the world, without being too explicit.” “It would be reckless not to engage in politics at this time.”
The name of the 14-year-old brand is intended to suggest that there is a flaw or crack in the fashion system. Using abandoned or neglected clothing and deadstock fabrics—this time from the Italian sportswear brand Australian—they accept imperfection as a feature of their creations’ beauty.
Australian, which is becoming more and more popular with clubgoers, also produced a technological and black neon capsule collection of clothing for Simon Cracker, its first manufacturing line. The footwear was donated by Doc Martens, and the designers embellished it with costume jewellery, badges, and pins.
JW Anderson’s Adequate Rest
The soft and spongy clothing in JW Anderson’s warm weather collection for men and women cocoons the form, which is an odd decision given the planet’s growing temperatures. Real Sleep, the collection’s apparent motto on tees, jackets, and sweaters, might be interpreted as a guide to surviving in the real world.
The Northern Irish designer explained following the show that the humorous collection “played with this idea of miniature scale and maximum scale.” Large quilted jackets led the way, giving way to large cashmere balls filled with yarn, each in triplicate.
With intarsia windows and doors, Anderson’s small rendition of Georgian terraced residences and country cottages was displayed on the front of knitwear.
Sweatshirts with pillows seemed sturdy enough to break a fall. As if to say, “The world is too much,” large, colourful constructions like silken balloons were deflated and attached to coats. If that’s the case, find solace in a cheerful pint of Guinness; the Irish stout is highlighted in a capsule collection that features humorous pictures of a promotion for knitwear from the previous century.
Anderson claimed to be investigating “the idea of permissiveness with the clothing. This idea of what we do best is the storytelling.”
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Fashion
During a pre-wedding cruise, Radhika Merchant chose a red Balmain dress for a romantic photo with Anant Ambani.
The pre-wedding festivities in Italy of Radhika Merchant and Anant Ambani continue to gain attention on the internet as fresh images from the events appear on the platform. Shaleena Nathani, a celebrity stylist, also released pictures of the couple that feature them cuddling while on a cruise. For those who don’t know, the Ambani family celebrated Radhika and Anant by taking their friends and relatives on an opulent luxury cruise. See what the prospective bride wore to a cruise party.
The future bride is seen in Shaleena Nathani’s photos with Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant wearing a red floor-length gown. “Celebrating Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant on cruise,” was how Shaleena captioned the photo. The stylist also disclosed that Anant was dressed in a Dolce & Gabbana bespoke, while Radhika was wearing a Balmain outfit. The red dress is composed of viscose fabric and is part of their sustainable collection. To see how much Radhika’s outfit costs, continue scrolling.
What is the cost of the red Balmain dress worn by Radhika Merchant?
The dress that Radhika is wearing is titled “Long Pleated Dress With Flower Detail.” It costs about ₹5,42,850 (US 6,500) and can be purchased on the official Balmain website.
Everything about the styling of Radhika’s Balmain dress
The bold red hue gives the Balmain look like a suitable option for a future bride. It has a figure-hugging silhouette, spaghetti straps, a plunging V neckline, a front flower accent, a pleated design that cascades down, and a floor-length hem. With a matching red scarf, a diamond wrist cuff, a diamond pendant on a delicate chain, diamond ear studs, and bold rings, Shaleena accessorized Radhika’s look.
Lastly, Radhika opted for loose hair, winged eyeliner, shimmering nude eye shadow to draw attention to her under-eye area, pink lipstick on her cheeks, rouge on her cheeks, and highlighter.
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Fashion
Moschino breaks fashion conventions at Milan Fashion Week, while Dsquared2 amps up the ante with raunchy ensembles and male dancers.
Milan Fashion Week: Predominately intended for menswear previews, the event marked the end of the previous calendar norms on Friday when it opened with two co-ed collections. There are just twenty runway shows this week, so there should be ample opportunity to consider the direction that fashion is going. Following Canadian design brand Dsquared2, which debuted a complete male and womenswear collection, Moschino opened with a show that combined menswear for the upcoming summer and women’s 2025 resort.
Highlights from Friday’s Lost and Found show at Moschino during Milan Fashion Week
During his second term as creative director of Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza tore the rules to pieces.
“I want to bring the concept of freedom of expression through clothing to Moschino’s future, since it is connected to the brand’s original DNA,” Appiolaza remarked in the rear. Gender is not at issue here. Nationality is not a factor here. Essentially, it’s about dressing as you want to and not how you should, and being at ease.
As summer approaches in the northern hemisphere, the Argentine designer reads our collective minds, appealing to our longing to escape the daily grind of the workplace and travel to our ideal destinations. Along the way, familiar items change and daydreaming takes control.
Appiolaza uses large paperclips to create a shimmering tank. Embroidered onto a blazer are fabric post-its with jobs left undone. Another turns into a survival jacket for an office worker; nothing is hidden and it has pockets for pencils, notepads, credit cards, ID badges, charging cables and field guides. Later on, it transforms into an adventure jacket complete with a magnifying glass and field guides.
Dresses are created by disassembling suits and trenches. Then, as if to say, “Enough,” they are torn apart. The final straw was an aeroplane sitting on a hat. After that, a real straw skirt.
There’s a new line of safari clothing, beach pareos, knitwear with soccer ball patterns, skirts that double as postcards and blazers printed with an Italian table still life featuring bread, ripe tomatoes and a Chianti bottle.
With a modern and irreverent twist that is guaranteed to make people grin, the collection boldly embraces the sardonic and whimsical DNA of the design house. An ink spot is ready on a suit shirt. A sparkling pizza smear adorns a tank top, which is paired with an Italian tri-color skirt featuring soccer balls all over it. Men wear brimmed hats in triplicate, as though a fashion copy machine replicated and resized them.
“These characters are all explorers on a self-discovery journey,” Appiolaza remarked.
Dsquared2 increases the intensity
With their provocative and daring men’s and women’s collection for their Dsquared2 fashion brand, Canadian twin designers Dean and Dan Caten raised the stakes.
The twins termed it “bodacious theatricality,” but the Catens brought life to the fashionable theatre with a group of men dancing together beneath red lights while wearing sheer rubberized tanks and black pants.
The well-buffed collection included sheers, sequins, leather, and denim pieces that highlighted and exposed the body. There were only two panels to a denim garment, held in place by sequined vines. He wore asymmetric, off-the-shoulder knitwear that flaunted well-defined chests. Short shorts and sports number shirts were worn over sequin bikinis. Cascading chiffons exposed harnesses used for bondage.
Dan Caten remarked, “It’s sensual and sexual,” behind the scenes. We are experiencing a slight spicy feeling due to the Dsquared2 heat.
“We are bringing love,” Dean continued. We’re bringing a dream with us. Since reality as we know it is only partially true, we are delivering theatre, which is an escape from reality.
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Fashion
Paris Fashion Week adds yet another degree of confusion when Givenchy, Valentino, and other fashion companies withdraw for the season
Paris Fashion Week: With its return on Tuesday, the fashion show will provide much-needed respite to a nation reeling from political unrest. Menswear week ends on Sunday, while the haute couture shows begin right away and run until June 27.
Since far-right parties surged in European polls and President Emmanuel Macron scheduled unexpected legislative elections, France has been in disarray.
The largest problem for fashionistas, however, may be getting around Paris, which is wrapping up preparations to host the Olympic Games next month. Road and site closures have resulted in a tenfold increase in traffic congestion.
Menswear and couture weeks were moved up to July due to the Olympics (womenswear takes place in September).
Some companies have been forced to withdraw this season due to the gruelling pace at which the fashion industry is already moving, such as Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain, which informed AFP that it had withdrew at the last minute.
Givenchy and Valentino will also not be attending this week’s shows.
Among the well-known figures attending is hip-hop superstar Pharrell Williams, who will maintain his prominent leadership role at Louis Vuitton. This year marks a year after his ultra-lavish first presentation, during when he took over the Pont Neuf bridge and painted its paving stones gold.
The centrepiece, though, will be a massive party hosted by Vogue on Sunday that unites the two extremely profitable industries of fashion and athletics.
This year marks the third iteration of Vogue World, a touring version of the Met Gala that has previously taken place in New York and London. The event comes as the brand looks for innovative ways to remain relevant in an era where magazine sales are declining.
Leading fashion houses, such as Balenciaga, Hermes, Dior, and Jacquemus, will showcase collections that are matched with Olympic sports like breakdancing and athletics.
Chanel surprise
Significant changes have occurred at the top of fashion houses.
The biggest surprise came when it was revealed this week that Virginie Viard, who took over for her predecessor Karl Lagerfeld following his death in 2019 and worked with him for 20 years, was leaving Chanel.
Despite managing record sales for the brand last year, it appears that the separation was less than amicable, as Viard will not be present for Chanel’s couture presentation on June 25.
A Chanel representative told AFP, “It will be a studio collection and Virginie Viard will not be present.”
Speculating about the next big thing has become a popular past time of fashionistas since the end of the Lagerfeld period.
The names that are making the rounds are Simon Porte Jacquemus, whose eponymous label has been one of the biggest independent success stories of recent years, Hedi Slimane of Celine, Marine Serre of France, and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who recently departed Valentino.
Givenchy is currently searching for a head designer following Matthew Williams’ resignation last year, while Valentino awaits the introduction of its much anticipated new creative director, Alessandro Michele (previously of Gucci).
On Saturday of this week, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten will have his last show.
The 66-year-old, while not being a household name, is retiring as a darling among serious fashion lovers because of his cutting-edge looks and skillful craftsmanship.
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